I hate that term ‘bucket list’. Why not ‘gorgeous vase filled with life must-do list’? Why ‘bucket’? Really? ‘Bucket’?
Regardless, I’m thrilled to say I’ve finally crossed the historical, ecological and party travel jewel known as Palm Springs off my personal Must List – and intend to cross it off again and again.
Nestled below the San Jacinto Mountains and long a sublime playground favoured by Hollywood elite and gays alike (same animal, really), Palm Springs has repeatedly been named the #1 gay travel destination worldwide and at long last I now know why.
My fiancé Eddie Stone and I – both lovers of the mid-century modern aesthetic – touched down in the land of a special brand of clean dry desert air, clear blue skies, swimming pools and Jetsons homes to attend the 6th edition of one of the city’s signature events: Palm Springs Modernism Week.
GGTravel Tip: WestJet began offering non-stop flights (Wednesdays and Saturdays) from Toronto in February and flight non-stop from Edmonton, Calgary and Vancouver as well. Also notable: WestJet flights I’ve taken always seem to contain at least one crew-member aboard a WestJet trip cast in the role of sky clown. On our way to California, crew member Bridgette had me laughing aloud as she quipped, ‘We hope you are satisfied with our service today, and if you’re not the exits are located on both the right and left sides of our cabin.’
PALM SPRINGS MODERNISM WEEK
The natural drama of the Coachella Valley surrounding Palm Springs has inspired visionary architects since the 1920’s to a design movement now called Desert Modernism, to which worldwide attention is paid. Influenced by the enviable indoor-outdoor style that is desert living, the likes of legends such as Albert Frey, Donald Wexler, William F. Cody and Richard Neutra evoked an elegant lifestyle using clean lines and natural materials like glass, steel, cement and rock, which can be found in buildings of every type in Palm Springs from residential to religious. Even a local McDonalds honours the aesthetic, and no one in the city can miss the looming landmark home Lautner built perched high above the city for Bob and Delores Hope.
While Palm Springs boasts one of largest concentrations of mid-century modern architecture in the world, it also boasts Robert Imber and his one-man Palm Springs Modern Tours. ‘We live it and breathe it,’ says Imber of the city and modernism. Imber has encyclopedic knowledge of the countless notable buildings worth enjoying, along with fabled stories of former occupants’ time in each, like the tale of the crack that still remains in the bathroom sink to this day from back when a furious starlet threw a champagne bottle at a philandering Frank Sinatra.
Elvis' The House Of Tomorrow. Photo: Shaun Proulx Media
Imber picked Eddie and I up at our hotel on day one of our stay, taking us on an intimate tour of a city that really is an architectural museum. ‘Happy Modernism!’ was the mantra of the afternoon as community excitement built around the celebration about to start. Imber, who seems to know everyone, took us through the neighbourhoods Little Tuscany Estates, Vista Las Palmas and Las Palmas, showing us stunning home after home, including Elvis’ ‘The House of Tommorrow’, Sinatra’s house (replete with cracked sink), a home where Liz Taylor spent much time, the Bing Crosby estate, as well as a Wexler home once owned by Dinah Shore that those in the know that day in Palm Springs were abuzz over; hot rumour had it Cher had just purchased the property.
The Palm Springs Hollywood Connection
Early Hollywood that saw stars like Cary Grant, Charlie Chaplin and Laurence Olivier also saw their studio contracts contain a 100-mile clause designed to keep talent close to Hollywood when shoots were in progress. This made Palm Springs an ideal party town within the 100-mile limit, and at the same time gay Hollywood could also be out safely. To this day, residents value the provenance and stewardship celebrities bring to Palm Springs, notes Imber.
‘Palm Springs was where Hollywood could come and spend money, a posh and elite crowd in what was already a resort town filled with free-spirited, optimistic, and forward-thinking people.’ Today’s new breed of stars prefer the many walled estates located in the star-kissed city, and the very-Canadian way privacy is fairly respected when out in public.
Our time with Imber was filled with fascinating conversation about the far-reaching effect mid-century design continues to have to this day. Heavily booked, he is still a must-try to nail down for your own trip: 760-318-6118. (No website, Imber is that cool.)
Here, Imber explains the arrival of the modernist aesthetic to Palm Springs:
(See more images of classic Palm Springs desert modernism.)
The Home Away From Home You Won't Want To Leave. Photo: Shaun Proulx Media
The Accommodations: Given the modernistic theme of our Palm Springs adventure, Eddie and I decided the 1955 William Alexander-designed Century Palm Springs was the place for us. Calling themselves ‘the new definition of luxury’, they aren’t far off. A modern apartment house in it’s early days turned resort in the ‘70’s that then saw a 2004 boutique transformation, the clothing-optional Century Palm Springs sits three minutes from the city’s airport. Located in the gay-popular Warm Sands neighbourhood (Palm Springs has a population of 45,000; 40% is said to be gay) Century Palm Springs sees you amidst uncompromised views of San Jacinto Mountain.
Rooms With A View At Century Palm Springs. Photo: Shaun Proulx Media
A steel and glass gate opens to reveal modern meeting yesterday, as Philippe Starck, Charles and Ray Eames and Isamu Noguchi blend in the common areas, each of the 9 guest rooms (and their 3 suites complete with private patios), as well as a courtyard boasting a spa at 102 degrees, a heated pool at 86, and sexy open fire pit.
Eddie On Fire. Photo: Shaun Proulx Media
The false premise that modern isn’t comfortable is flicked aside at The Century Palm Springs, with Egyptian cotton sheets and comforters, king beds by Chiropedic Beds, flat screen TVs, built in WI-FI, catered continental breakfast by famed gourmet baker Aspen Mills, and in-room coffee by Palm Spring’s renowned Koffi/Palm Springs. It all adds up to make The Century Palm an effortlessly chic home away from home that makes you never want to go home. (Take a video tour.)
The service there (thank you Charlton and Greg!) was high above par, quietly besting any typical luxury hotel. Happy hour can be scheduled to your preference – we like that – and an on-site masseur offers techniques from Swedish to Trigger Point. Throw in comp passes for Palm Springs Art Museum and the nearby World Gym, plus a borrow-a-bike service and it seems like Century Palm Springs has thought of everything.
Our ‘Be Your Gay Self Comfort Rating’ for Century Palm Springs: 5 out of 5 (D’uh!).
Dining: Palm Springs offers endless options to suit a variety of food fancies:
Must Breakfast: Pinnochio’s In The Desert. Not to sound like an alcoholic, but who doesn’t want champagne at breakfast? Bottomless champagne is part of their early-morning menu, which sees typical favourites from pancakes to eggs Benedict and other hearty offerings.
Must Gay Resto: Wang’s In The Desert. Not to sound like an alcoholic, but who doesn’t love a nightly $2 happy hour? The highly popular Wang’s is so much more than that though, a real Pan Asian delight. The service there is excellent, the crowd is mixed, and Wang’s exceptional menu has so many tantalizing options that we finally had to give in and ask for guidance. Celebrating seven years, Wang’s outdoor patio is the weekend see-and-be-seen spot and we loved that you could dine or party or both here.
Must Dinner: Every city needs it’s one key gay restaurant. Toronto has Zelda’s, Montreal has Schwartz’s and Saint Sulpice while Vancouver has The Elbow Room. In Palm Springs, our vote is the tapas lounge Azul, with it’s ambitious menu (from beef burgundy to mac ‘n’ cheese), wait staff with a cozy, familiar been-there-done-that attitude, and a fag hag or drag queen entertaining. We just missed drag legend and Wigstock founder Lady Bunny gigging there, but that didn’t stop us from filling up on fettuccine, strong martinis (not to sound like an alcoholic), all while singing along to The Carpenters with the lovely lady at the keyboard.
Shopping: North Palm Canyon Drive is a heaven for art and design freaks. Our must list: Trina Turk, just fabulous, Insolito Home, Michael H. Lord Gallery, and Shag The Store.
A Sexy Sight On A Stroll Down North Palm Canyon Drive. Photo: Shaun Proulx Media
Feeding Your Visual Spirit:
With Mt. San Jacinto as it’s backdrop, the Palm Springs Art Museum is a permanent collection of 19th, 20th and 21st century work. When we were there, ‘Steel And Shade: The Architechture of Donald Wexler’ was an exhibit to die for featuring the golden age of California architecture from when artists first had the freedom to create with the materials now so famous in Palm Springs.
Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Drive about 15 minutes up Tramway Drive and then take a 10-minute / 2.5 mile ride on the world’s largest aerial tram to the Mt. San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness Area.
Getting High. Photo: Shaun Proulx Media
Gone is the dry desert, replaced at 8,516 feet by 14,000 acres of alpine forest pristine snow, breathtaking views, and temperatures nearly 40 degrees cooler than below. Hike, ski, camp, or pose for pics amongst the stunning scenery:
Sample Pose. Photo: Shaun Proulx Media
GGTravel Tip: Unless you rent a car, call for a taxi before your descent down. By that time it will be there with no wait and no line ups.
(Click to see more of the natural drama and beauty of Palm Springs.)
Body & Soul:
Eddie and I visited Smoke Tree Stables and took a 7-mile ride into the canyons. Here, Eddie takes you on our ride:
GGTravel Tip: Whether you’ve just climbed off a horse or simply want to really and truly relax, taking the waters in at The Palm Springs Spa Resort Casino is a must. The treatment includes a steam, then a sauna, eucalyptus inhalation, and a soak in the toxin-removing mineral waters the area is famous for. If you are like me, you’ll be fairly close to blissful collapse as you head to the zen lounge to come back down to Earth. ($40).
Palm Springs A-Go-Go!
- Over 300 days of sunshine
- 40% gay
- Over 25 GLBT resorts
- Over 15 neighbourhood gay bar 4 gay dance club
- 2 of the largest annual circuit parties in the world: The White Party and The Dinah Shore Classic
- Every Thursday Palm Canyon Drive is closed off to traffic and transformed into a vibrant pedestrian street fair called Village fest.
- There’s an app for that: visitpalmsprings.mobi – iPhone, Droid, Blackberry and iPad. Free.
- Palmspringsgayinfo.com
- Visitgaypalmsprings.com
- PrideNation.com/guide
- Desertdailyguide.com
Ahead This Year:
Dinah Shore Week
Dates: March 30- April 4, 2011
Location: Special events taking place at host hotels Renaissance Palm Springs and Riviera Resort & Spa.
Description: A week-long lesbian getaway event for couples and singles presented by Two Promotors: Girl Bar www.dinahshoreweekend.com and Club Skirts www.thedinah.com
Jeffrey Sanker’s White Party
Dates: April 8-11, 2011
Information: www.jeffreysanker.com
Description: Celebrating its 21st Anniversary, the White Party is one of the premier gay circuit party in the world.
Coachella Valley Music Festival
Dates: April 15-17, 2011
Location: Empire Polo Grounds 81-800 Avenue 51, Indio CA
Information: www.coachella.com
Description: Annual music and arts festival features many genres of music including alternative rock, hip hop, and Electronic music as well as large sculptural art. The event has several stages/tents set-up throughout the grounds, each playing live music continuously.
Stagecoach Country Music Festival
Dates: April 30-May 1, 2011
Location: Empire Polo Grounds, 81-800 Avenue 51, Indio CA
Information: http://stagecoachfestival.com
Description: Annual country music festival
Annual Elvis Honeymoon Weekend
Dates: May 7-8, 2011
Location: Elvis Honeymoon House, 1350 Ladera Circle in Palm Springs
Information: www.elvishoneymoon.com 760-322-1192
Description: Concerts, tours, special guests and celebrities
Palm Springs Film Noir Festival
Dates: May 12-15, 2011
Location: Camelot Theaters 2300 E. Baristo Road in Palm Springs.
Information: www.palmspringsfilmnoir.com / (760) 864-9760
Description: Festival feature noir classics as well as a lecture series.
Palm Springs Air Museum Annual Memorial Day Flower Drop
Date: May 30, 2011
Location: 745 N Gene Autry Trail, Palm Springs, CA 92262-5464
Information: www.PalmSpringsAirMuseum.org (760) 778-6262
Description: Each Memorial Day, the museum commemorates the important role of those who fought in World War II with a flower drop from the museum’s B-25 aircraft. Thousands of white and red carnations represent those who gave the greatest sacrifice — their lives — for their country. The drop takes place at 1 p.m. on May 25.
Palm Springs Desert Resorts Restaurant Week
Dates: June 3-12, 2011
Location: Restaurants in Palm Springs, Cathedral City and Rancho Mirage
Information: www.palmspringsrestaurantweek.com
Description: A spectacular exhibition of the region’s finest culinary talents, Restaurant Week is designed to highlight the entire valley- from Palm Springs to La Quinta- as a premiere dining destination with three-course, prix fix menus from over 100 unique locations.
Palm Springs International Short Film Festival
Date: June 21-27, 2011
Location: Palm Springs
Information: www.psfilmfest.org
Description: Most acclaimed short film showcases in the World, Celebrating its 15th year of short films, lectures, etc.
Annual Tribute to Elvis
Dates: August 2011
Location: Elvis Honeymoon House, 1350 Ladera Circle in Palm Springs
Information: www.elvishoneymoon.com 760-322-1192
Description: Concerts, tours, special guests and celebrities
American Heat Bike Weekend
Date: October 2011
Location: Downtown Palm Springs
Information: www.road-shows.com
Description: Thousands of motorcycles, entertainment, vendors, etc.
Palm Springs Pride Weekend
Dates: November 5-6, 2011
Location: Palm Springs Stadium and downtown
Information: www.pspride.org
Description: One of the largest gay pride celebrations including parade, vendors, etc.
City of Palm Springs Veterans Day Parade
Date: November 2011
Location: Palm Canyon Drive
Information: www.ci.palm-springs.ca.us (760) 323-8272
Description: Annual event begins at 3:30 p.m. pays tribute to all those who have served our country in the Armed Forces. Immediately following the parade is a post-parade concert and fireworks display at the intersection of Amado and Palm Canyon.
McCormick’s Classic Car Show and Auction
Dates: November 2011
Location: Spa Resort Casino, 401 E. Amado Road, Palm Springs
Information: www.classic-carauction.com (760) 320-3290
Description: 500 classic, sports, antique and special interest autos are sold across the Auction block during the 3 days. Also a free car show of another 200 cars is held on Saturday.
Festival of Lights Parade
Date: December 3, 2011
Location: Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs
Information: www.paradesofpalmsprings.com or call (760) 325-5749
Description: The annual Palm Springs Festival of Lights Parade features lighted floats, equestrians, bands, autos, and celebrities.
Walk of the Inns
Date: December 8, 2011
Information: www.VisitPalmSprings.com or call (800) 347-7746
Location: Palm Springs
Description: A walking tour of the historic, boutique and small inns in downtown Palm Springs. Maps can be picked up at the Palm Springs Art Museum or any of the participating properties.
Events are subject to change. For additional events, visit www.VisitPalmSprings.com
